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The hilly route to the sea
Text: Elitsa Grancharova
The hilly route from Sofia to the Black Sea starts at the edge of Bulgaria’s capital and of course passes through Plovdiv’s hillocks, but from there it goes to the south through the Rhodope, Sakar and Strandja mountains until it finally ends at the blue waves of the marvelous sea.
Entering the Sofia-Polvdiv highway in the morning would ensure time to enjoy the old part of what was for long years the second-largest Bulgarian city (currently the third largest) Plovdiv. On the way, however, one can touch down at Pazardjik before noon, which is exactly 99km after Sofia and 30km before Plovdiv.
Pazardjik has a quite large pedestrian zone, as well as many open-air cafes, where one can recharge for the remaining part of the journey. The most prominent landmark of the town is the cathedral-church Sveta Bogoroditsa (the Holy Virign Mother), which has quite a remarkable history and also shelters one of Bulgaria’s wonder-making icons that is believed to cure diseases.
The church is near the River Maritsa and was built in 1836. The Turkish town ruler at that time permitted the Bulgarians to built the church, but it could be no larger than an ox hide and no taller than the town mosque. The locals then cut the hide into small bands and layed them out on the ground in the form of a church floor. The Turkish ruler was impressed when he saw it and did not impede the Bulgarians’ construction. Also, the church is interesting because the larger part of it is dug out into the ground because of the Ottoman conditions on its height. The church's iconostasis is a part of UNESCO culture heritage.
The next stop of the route is the city of Plovdiv, where, among all the history, one can find various restaurants to have a decent lunch under a the shadow of a tree. At Alafrangite and at Maluk Bounardjik, traditional Bulgarian food is served. There are also some Eastern-influenced restaurants. One of my favourites is the Armenian restaurant Eregan, which offers various types of local and Armenian food and is known as one of the oldest restaurants in the town, dating back since the years of communism.
The city is famous for its hilly old part – a national treasure that the locals value highly and are enormously proud of. A walk in this area is not so bad an idea after a cosy lunch. The old part of the city is well maintained to welcome the tourists. But leave your high-heels in the bag, as narrow streets are climbing up the hill, where the old district and the amphitheatre are located, and all roads are covered with paving stones. The houses are in the typical Bulgarian Renaissance style: as a rule, the first floor is made of stone, while the second storey is wooden and usually protrudes out of the ground floor. Nowadays all the houses are painted in bright colours that not only outline the building style from those times so one can see better what the actual architecture was, but also brings a more cheerful atmosphere to the visitors. Street lanterns are obligatory for every corner.
After filling your memory card with pictures from Plovdiv, it is time to take off to Assenovgrad – the gateway to Rhodope Mountain placed 20km south of Plovdiv. The town has its own sympathetic face settled on both strands of Chaya river. In the past it was famous as the place of most dressmakers in Bulgaria and people came from all over the country here to buy the fanciest clothes for the time. Today it is still known as the town of the wedding clothes as there are so many wedding clothes shops for such a small town. Also many are the churches, monasteries and chapels in Assenovgrad, so some call it “the small Jerusalem”.
Assenova Krepost (Assen’s fortress) is only three km away from the city and is the best place to spend a hot summer afternoon, as the location is naturally shady because it is under the first higher slopes of the Rhodope Mountain. Placed on top of a impressive high rock, you should climb the bulwark’s steep outside stairs to reach several different levels – mountain hills view points that make you feel like you would take off any moment.
The city, as well as the fortress, has been named after one of Bulgaria’s kings, Tsar Ivan Assen II. Assenova Krepost existed as early as the Thracian times but the church Sveta Bogoroditsa Petrichka is the only fully preserved building there.
A nice place to spend a night or two in the vicinity of Assenovgrad is the so-called hunt and fishing complex Chetiridesette Izvora (which means “the 40 springs”; tel: 03346 318; 0884 851 422). The complex is a perfect spot to relax in the foot of Rhodope Mountain and to get the first fresh mountain sunburn, as it has an open air swimming pool, a large filed for playing volleyball, football and other sports, or dancing, and also provides pleasant forest for walks. One could choose to spend the night in the hotel, in the two star motel or in the bungalows, all of which are part of the complex.
Not far from Assenovgrad, about 30km away, is Belintash – the notorious sanctuary of the god Dionysus. According to the legend, the Greek god has been born here and therefore the whole Rhodope Mountain is known as the mountain of Dionysus. The so-called “Dionysus sorrow” is a feeling that seizes everyone, who goes to the Rhodope Mountain. It is more likely a feeling of being relaxed and calm, and a bit distracted.
However, the place does not allow too much distraction, as its enormous, grandiose and majestic rocks attract the eye and the admiration. The Belintash plateau is above the village Sini Vruh (blue peak). Some people translate its name Belintash as “stone of knowledge” and some as “the rock of war”, while there are also some, who call it “the Rhodope Stonehenge”. Mysterious figures, heads of stone and other weird rock carvings are to be observed and explored in Belintash. It is believed the place was a centre of religious ritualism, knowledge and experience. Its original appearance, which according to the archaeologists has pronounced ancient Thracian identity, has luckily been preserved for the coming generations.
Other interesting rock formations in this area are the so-called “rock chaplets” near the mountain peak Chervenata Skala (1501m) and the whole area of the peak. Nearby is also the cave Topchika, a place unique by its rock engravings of primitive animals.
After several exciting hours, or days, in the area of Assenovgrad, the route goes another 60km south-east to another town big for that area – Kurdjali. About 20km to the east is another well-known Thracian sanctuary – Perperikon
Perperikov opened for visitors several years ago when the archaeological works at the place were done. The landmark consists of ancient stone buildings’ remains placed on top of a high hill behind a forest, which is very pleasant for walks during the hot summer months. Thousands years ago Perperikon was only a huge rock massif that had no plant life, which attracted people there, and those people deified the grandiose crags. The sanctuary is in the East Rhodope – a region of a megalithic culture that according to some historians is not only connected to the Thracians but goes far back to the prehistoric era. At the beginning the primitive people could not carve the rocks but lived there bowing down before their stateliness. Later the inhabitants started carving the stone and forming different premises, which relicts can be observed and explored to the current day.
Several caves are located about 40km to the northeast in the region of Haskovo, the next bigger city on the route. The caves Dyado Doulyova Doupka and Mourchaluka 1 are in the vicinity of Nova Nadezhda, Ivanova Duopka cave is near the village of Klokotnitsa and Hladilnata Peshtera (literally, “refrigerator cave”) is in the village of Lyubenovo.
A worth-see settlement in the area is the village of Krepost, about 10km north-east from Haskovo and three km from the next bigger town Dimitrovgrad, which in 1997 became an creative object of two local painters – the brothers Hristo and Pancho Panevi. They decided to transform the place in a small town that has most decorated buildings from all in the area. Therefore, all public buildings are beautified by unique mural paintings and frescos. One would wonder how many are those public buildings in such a small village. The brothers painted eleven of their artworks on the walls of the local school, city hall, health care service, community centre and church, as well as on their birth house and on a small restaurant in the village centre. They keep on painting under the kind support of all other Krepost residents.
Another worth-see landmark between Haskovo and Dimitrovgrad is the so-called Nymph’s and Aphrodite’s Sanctuary, which is also a national monument of culture in the immediate vicinity of the village of Kaznakovo. The picturesque site is located around three lavish karst springs and includes also cult buildings and amphitheatre. It is another Thracian sanctuary built in second century by the Roman chief commander Tit Flavius and the local population believes the spring water has healing qualities.
Several family hotels in the region of Haskovo mineral baths offer an inexpensive shelter between 20 and 60 leva. Reservations can be made at 0878 802 485, 0886 079 005.
Another day starts, absolutely possible with a wonderful sunrise somewhere there in the east Rhodope. Another 168km divide Haskovo from Bourgas. After leaving Rhodope mountain, the route goes trough two other mysterious and divine local treasures: Sakar and Strandja Mountains.
Sakar is a small mountain protruding between Rhodope and Strandzha, which tallest peak is Vishegrad (856m). The mountain is one of Bulgaria’s richest regions in endangered birds of prey.
A prominent landmark in the area is Ustremski Monastery Sveta Troitsa, which is near the village of Ustrem, south of Topolovgrad (the biggest Sakar town). The monastery has been built in 15-th century during the Second Bulgarian Kingdom. It is one of the biggest Bulgarian cloisters and is open all year round.
In the village of Sakaritsa is the nature-lover’s club Armuda (tel.: 0489 22 513), which offers guides for Sakar mountain and environmentally clean food.
The plant life in Strandja-Sakar region is mainly Mediterranean and one can see even the flower jasmine there. Sakar’s flora is poorer than those in Strandja, where one can walk under relict trees, beeches and the evergreen Strandjanska zelenika
Strandja is pretty low and slant-hills mountain, and it is very convenient to conquer it on a bicycle. The whole mountain is protected area called Strandja natural park.
Between the small quite villages Bulgari and Kosti is the oldest Bulgarian natural reserve Silokosia. It is also the lowest protected zone in the country located at 250m above the sea level.
The village of Bulgari is one of the four left places in Bulgaria, where the ancient tradition nestinarstvo is performed. This is an energetic dance over dying embers, which annually attracts hundreds of visitors to this small Strandja village on the evening of June 3. On that day according the old tradition is celebrated the feast of Konstantin and Elena.
Forty-seven kilometres from Bulgari, the wonderful spacious water panorama of Bulgaria’s second biggest Black sea city of Bourgas bursts upon the eyes inviting on a deserved holiday after the exciting route between mountain highs, rocks and caves.
Alafrangite
17 Kiril Nektariev Str
Tel: 32/ 269 595
Maluk Bounardjik
1 Volga Str
Tel: 032/ 642 640
Ergan
29 Otets Paisii Str
032/ 650 041
The hilly route from Sofia to the Black Sea starts at the edge of Bulgaria’s capital and of course passes through Plovdiv’s hillocks, but from there it goes to the south through the Rhodope, Sakar and Strandja mountains until it finally ends at the blue waves of the marvelous sea.Entering the Sofia-Polvdiv highway in the morning would ensure time to enjoy the old part of what was for long years the second-largest Bulgarian city (currently the third largest) Plovdiv. On the way, however, one can touch down at Pazardjik before noon, which is exactly 99km after Sofia and 30km before Plovdiv.
Pazardjik has a quite large pedestrian zone, as well as many open-air cafes, where one can recharge for the remaining part of the journey. The most prominent landmark of the town is the cathedral-church Sveta Bogoroditsa (the Holy Virign Mother), which has quite a remarkable history and also shelters one of Bulgaria’s wonder-making icons that is believed to cure diseases.
The church is near the River Maritsa and was built in 1836. The Turkish town ruler at that time permitted the Bulgarians to built the church, but it could be no larger than an ox hide and no taller than the town mosque. The locals then cut the hide into small bands and layed them out on the ground in the form of a church floor. The Turkish ruler was impressed when he saw it and did not impede the Bulgarians’ construction. Also, the church is interesting because the larger part of it is dug out into the ground because of the Ottoman conditions on its height. The church's iconostasis is a part of UNESCO culture heritage.
The next stop of the route is the city of Plovdiv, where, among all the history, one can find various restaurants to have a decent lunch under a the shadow of a tree. At Alafrangite and at Maluk Bounardjik, traditional Bulgarian food is served. There are also some Eastern-influenced restaurants. One of my favourites is the Armenian restaurant Eregan, which offers various types of local and Armenian food and is known as one of the oldest restaurants in the town, dating back since the years of communism.
The city is famous for its hilly old part – a national treasure that the locals value highly and are enormously proud of. A walk in this area is not so bad an idea after a cosy lunch. The old part of the city is well maintained to welcome the tourists. But leave your high-heels in the bag, as narrow streets are climbing up the hill, where the old district and the amphitheatre are located, and all roads are covered with paving stones. The houses are in the typical Bulgarian Renaissance style: as a rule, the first floor is made of stone, while the second storey is wooden and usually protrudes out of the ground floor. Nowadays all the houses are painted in bright colours that not only outline the building style from those times so one can see better what the actual architecture was, but also brings a more cheerful atmosphere to the visitors. Street lanterns are obligatory for every corner.
After filling your memory card with pictures from Plovdiv, it is time to take off to Assenovgrad – the gateway to Rhodope Mountain placed 20km south of Plovdiv. The town has its own sympathetic face settled on both strands of Chaya river. In the past it was famous as the place of most dressmakers in Bulgaria and people came from all over the country here to buy the fanciest clothes for the time. Today it is still known as the town of the wedding clothes as there are so many wedding clothes shops for such a small town. Also many are the churches, monasteries and chapels in Assenovgrad, so some call it “the small Jerusalem”.
Assenova Krepost (Assen’s fortress) is only three km away from the city and is the best place to spend a hot summer afternoon, as the location is naturally shady because it is under the first higher slopes of the Rhodope Mountain. Placed on top of a impressive high rock, you should climb the bulwark’s steep outside stairs to reach several different levels – mountain hills view points that make you feel like you would take off any moment.
The city, as well as the fortress, has been named after one of Bulgaria’s kings, Tsar Ivan Assen II. Assenova Krepost existed as early as the Thracian times but the church Sveta Bogoroditsa Petrichka is the only fully preserved building there.
A nice place to spend a night or two in the vicinity of Assenovgrad is the so-called hunt and fishing complex Chetiridesette Izvora (which means “the 40 springs”; tel: 03346 318; 0884 851 422). The complex is a perfect spot to relax in the foot of Rhodope Mountain and to get the first fresh mountain sunburn, as it has an open air swimming pool, a large filed for playing volleyball, football and other sports, or dancing, and also provides pleasant forest for walks. One could choose to spend the night in the hotel, in the two star motel or in the bungalows, all of which are part of the complex.
Not far from Assenovgrad, about 30km away, is Belintash – the notorious sanctuary of the god Dionysus. According to the legend, the Greek god has been born here and therefore the whole Rhodope Mountain is known as the mountain of Dionysus. The so-called “Dionysus sorrow” is a feeling that seizes everyone, who goes to the Rhodope Mountain. It is more likely a feeling of being relaxed and calm, and a bit distracted.
However, the place does not allow too much distraction, as its enormous, grandiose and majestic rocks attract the eye and the admiration. The Belintash plateau is above the village Sini Vruh (blue peak). Some people translate its name Belintash as “stone of knowledge” and some as “the rock of war”, while there are also some, who call it “the Rhodope Stonehenge”. Mysterious figures, heads of stone and other weird rock carvings are to be observed and explored in Belintash. It is believed the place was a centre of religious ritualism, knowledge and experience. Its original appearance, which according to the archaeologists has pronounced ancient Thracian identity, has luckily been preserved for the coming generations.
Other interesting rock formations in this area are the so-called “rock chaplets” near the mountain peak Chervenata Skala (1501m) and the whole area of the peak. Nearby is also the cave Topchika, a place unique by its rock engravings of primitive animals.
After several exciting hours, or days, in the area of Assenovgrad, the route goes another 60km south-east to another town big for that area – Kurdjali. About 20km to the east is another well-known Thracian sanctuary – Perperikon
Perperikov opened for visitors several years ago when the archaeological works at the place were done. The landmark consists of ancient stone buildings’ remains placed on top of a high hill behind a forest, which is very pleasant for walks during the hot summer months. Thousands years ago Perperikon was only a huge rock massif that had no plant life, which attracted people there, and those people deified the grandiose crags. The sanctuary is in the East Rhodope – a region of a megalithic culture that according to some historians is not only connected to the Thracians but goes far back to the prehistoric era. At the beginning the primitive people could not carve the rocks but lived there bowing down before their stateliness. Later the inhabitants started carving the stone and forming different premises, which relicts can be observed and explored to the current day.
Several caves are located about 40km to the northeast in the region of Haskovo, the next bigger city on the route. The caves Dyado Doulyova Doupka and Mourchaluka 1 are in the vicinity of Nova Nadezhda, Ivanova Duopka cave is near the village of Klokotnitsa and Hladilnata Peshtera (literally, “refrigerator cave”) is in the village of Lyubenovo.
A worth-see settlement in the area is the village of Krepost, about 10km north-east from Haskovo and three km from the next bigger town Dimitrovgrad, which in 1997 became an creative object of two local painters – the brothers Hristo and Pancho Panevi. They decided to transform the place in a small town that has most decorated buildings from all in the area. Therefore, all public buildings are beautified by unique mural paintings and frescos. One would wonder how many are those public buildings in such a small village. The brothers painted eleven of their artworks on the walls of the local school, city hall, health care service, community centre and church, as well as on their birth house and on a small restaurant in the village centre. They keep on painting under the kind support of all other Krepost residents.
Another worth-see landmark between Haskovo and Dimitrovgrad is the so-called Nymph’s and Aphrodite’s Sanctuary, which is also a national monument of culture in the immediate vicinity of the village of Kaznakovo. The picturesque site is located around three lavish karst springs and includes also cult buildings and amphitheatre. It is another Thracian sanctuary built in second century by the Roman chief commander Tit Flavius and the local population believes the spring water has healing qualities.
Several family hotels in the region of Haskovo mineral baths offer an inexpensive shelter between 20 and 60 leva. Reservations can be made at 0878 802 485, 0886 079 005.
Another day starts, absolutely possible with a wonderful sunrise somewhere there in the east Rhodope. Another 168km divide Haskovo from Bourgas. After leaving Rhodope mountain, the route goes trough two other mysterious and divine local treasures: Sakar and Strandja Mountains.
Sakar is a small mountain protruding between Rhodope and Strandzha, which tallest peak is Vishegrad (856m). The mountain is one of Bulgaria’s richest regions in endangered birds of prey.
A prominent landmark in the area is Ustremski Monastery Sveta Troitsa, which is near the village of Ustrem, south of Topolovgrad (the biggest Sakar town). The monastery has been built in 15-th century during the Second Bulgarian Kingdom. It is one of the biggest Bulgarian cloisters and is open all year round.
In the village of Sakaritsa is the nature-lover’s club Armuda (tel.: 0489 22 513), which offers guides for Sakar mountain and environmentally clean food.
The plant life in Strandja-Sakar region is mainly Mediterranean and one can see even the flower jasmine there. Sakar’s flora is poorer than those in Strandja, where one can walk under relict trees, beeches and the evergreen Strandjanska zelenika
Strandja is pretty low and slant-hills mountain, and it is very convenient to conquer it on a bicycle. The whole mountain is protected area called Strandja natural park.
Between the small quite villages Bulgari and Kosti is the oldest Bulgarian natural reserve Silokosia. It is also the lowest protected zone in the country located at 250m above the sea level.
The village of Bulgari is one of the four left places in Bulgaria, where the ancient tradition nestinarstvo is performed. This is an energetic dance over dying embers, which annually attracts hundreds of visitors to this small Strandja village on the evening of June 3. On that day according the old tradition is celebrated the feast of Konstantin and Elena.
Forty-seven kilometres from Bulgari, the wonderful spacious water panorama of Bulgaria’s second biggest Black sea city of Bourgas bursts upon the eyes inviting on a deserved holiday after the exciting route between mountain highs, rocks and caves.
Alafrangite
17 Kiril Nektariev Str
Tel: 32/ 269 595
Maluk Bounardjik
1 Volga Str
Tel: 032/ 642 640
Ergan
29 Otets Paisii Str
032/ 650 041
Source: Month2Come
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